Greenbelt Planting For Privacy And Erosion Control

Greenbelt Planting For Privacy And Erosion Control

  • 11/6/25

If your Lake Charlevoix shoreline feels exposed or you’re worried about erosion, a well‑planned greenbelt can solve both without sacrificing your view. You can create privacy, reduce Canada goose traffic, and stabilize your bank with a layered mix of native plants that fit the way this lake behaves. In this guide, you’ll learn simple dimensions, plant choices, and maintenance steps that work on Charlevoix shores. Let’s dive in.

Why greenbelts work on Lake Charlevoix

Lake Charlevoix sees seasonal water levels, wave action, and winter ice. Those forces can loosen soils and undercut banks. A dense native greenbelt slows water, traps sediment, and reinforces your shoreline from the toe to the upland transition.

A thoughtfully designed buffer also adds privacy and curb appeal. When you use layers of grasses, shrubs, and trees, you get natural screening while keeping framed views to the water. You also reduce runoff of nutrients into the lake and support pollinators and songbirds.

There are trade‑offs. Wider buffers mean less continuous lawn and the first 2 to 5 years take care to establish. Permits can apply if work occurs at or below the ordinary high‑water mark, so plan early.

Read your shoreline first

Slope and wave exposure

Note whether your bank is gentle or steep. Gentle slopes under about 10 degrees can rely more on vegetation. Steeper banks over about 30 degrees or spots with heavy wave energy may need added structural support like coir logs or a rock toe paired with plantings.

Soils and drainage

Sandy areas drain fast and favor willow and grass mixes. Finer silt or clay soils hold moisture and can host a broader range of shrubs and sedges. Match plants to how wet or dry the site stays.

Existing vegetation and invasives

Inventory what you have and flag invasive plants for removal. Common problems in northern Michigan include Phragmites, purple loosestrife, glossy and European buckthorn, and Japanese knotweed. Remove or control these before or during planting.

Wildlife pressure and views

Deer browse is common, and geese are drawn to expanses of short lawn that run to the water. Plan for protection during establishment. Decide where you want view corridors so plant heights and spacing frame the lake without creating a wall.

Design templates that work here

The basic recipe is a layered, irregular planting in three zones. Think emergent plants at the water’s edge, dense shrubs near the bank, and taller trees set back. This builds stability, habitat, and privacy while preserving sightlines.

Multi‑objective greenbelt: 20–40 feet deep

If you want erosion control, fewer geese, and privacy together, aim for a buffer 20 to 40 feet deep.

  • Zone 1: 0–5 ft from the ordinary high‑water mark. Use emergent sedges, rushes, and similar species to trap sediment and stabilize the toe.
  • Zone 2: 5–20 ft inland. Plant a dense mix of willows, red osier dogwood, alder, elderberry, and native grasses or sedges. This is your first privacy layer and a goose deterrent.
  • Zone 3: 20–50+ ft inland. Add taller shrubs and trees like northern white cedar, white pine, serviceberry, and viburnums for long‑term screening and deep roots.

Space shrubs 3 to 6 feet on center for a dense screen. Space small to medium trees 12 to 20 feet apart and larger canopies 20 to 30 feet apart. Expect meaningful screening and erosion resistance within 2 to 5 years.

Maximum erosion control: 30–50+ feet deep

On steep banks or wind‑exposed points, widen the greenbelt to 30 to 50 feet or more and add bioengineering where needed.

  • Reinforce the toe with coir logs or appropriately sized rock, then plant live willow stakes 2 to 3 feet apart.
  • Use flexible, deeply rooted species like willows and red osier dogwood where ice and waves hit hardest.
  • Keep surface soils covered with dense grasses and sedges to reduce sheet erosion.

Privacy with a preserved view

If privacy is the priority but you want to keep the lake outlook, stagger heights and leave angled view corridors.

  • Low grasses and forbs at the edge.
  • A shrub zone 10 to 20 feet deep in the mid‑section.
  • Taller trees set back beyond 20 feet.

Prune lower branches to open framed views and avoid straight lines. Irregular clusters look natural and screen better.

Plant lists for Charlevoix shores

Focus on native species that handle local moisture, frost, and ice. Here are reliable picks for the northern Lower Peninsula:

  • Emergent and shoreline herbaceous: tussock sedge (Carex stricta), lake sedge (Carex lacustris), soft‑stem bulrush (Schoenoplectus tabernaemontani), bluejoint grass (Calamagrostis canadensis), rushes (Juncus effusus). Plant 1 to 2 feet on center in the wettest band.
  • Shrubs for fast stabilization and screening: red osier dogwood (Cornus sericea), silky dogwood (Cornus amomum), speckled alder (Alnus incana), willows (Salix species), highbush cranberry viburnum (Viburnum opulus var. americanum), black chokeberry (Aronia melanocarpa), elderberry (Sambucus canadensis). Plant 3 to 6 feet on center.
  • Trees set back: northern white cedar (Thuja occidentalis), white pine (Pinus strobus), red maple (Acer rubrum), paper birch (Betula papyrifera), black cherry (Prunus serotina), serviceberry (Amelanchier). Space 12 to 30 feet, depending on mature size.
  • Pollinator forbs and understory: bee balm (Monarda fistulosa), black‑eyed Susan (Rudbeckia), coneflower (Echinacea), asters, milkweed (Asclepias) in upland transitions.

Plants to avoid or remove: invasive common reed (Phragmites australis), purple loosestrife (Lythrum salicaria), glossy and European buckthorn, and Japanese knotweed. Skip non‑native ornamentals that attract geese near the water.

Step‑by‑step installation

  • Plan and permit: Map your zones, view corridors, and access points. Contact state and local offices to confirm if permits apply, especially for work at or below the ordinary high‑water mark.
  • Prep lightly: Minimize grading. Remove invasives carefully. Keep existing native vegetation where stable.
  • Time it right: Plant in spring for a full season of rooting, or early fall for trees and shrubs to establish before winter.
  • Plant the toe: In high‑energy spots, install coir logs or a rock toe, then add live willow stakes 2 to 3 feet apart. Plug emergent sedges and rushes along the edge.
  • Fill the shrub zone: Stagger dogwoods, willows, alder, and viburnums at 3 to 6 feet on center. Interplant with sedges and grasses.
  • Set back trees: Place cedars, pines, and maples 20 feet or more from the edge to protect views and reduce ice damage.
  • Mulch and water: Mulch wide but keep mulch off stems. Water regularly through the first two to three growing seasons.
  • Protect young plants: Use tree tubes or cages for deer. Temporary fencing or netting can deter geese while plants establish.

Maintenance timeline at a glance

  • Year 0–1: Water in dry spells, hand‑weed around young plants, and use erosion control fabrics on bare soils.
  • Years 1–3: Continue irrigation as needed. Prune for plant health and shape. Replace any losses and keep invasives in check.
  • Years 3–5+: Thin and selectively prune to maintain sightlines. If you need more privacy or goose control, expand the buffer upland.
  • Long term: Maintain framed views by pruning lower branches. Leave leaf litter and some dead stems for habitat value where practical.

Smarter goose deterrence

  • Replace lawn at the water’s edge with 10 to 20 feet of dense shrubs or tall grasses. This simple change significantly cuts goose use.
  • Create a visual and physical barrier. Twiggy shrubs like dogwood and willow near the edge make access uncomfortable.
  • Avoid low fruiting trees and food sources near the shoreline. If geese persist, review state guidance on non‑lethal deterrents.

Winter and ice considerations

Expect ice push and freeze‑thaw cycles. Flexible species like willows and red osier dogwood handle scour better. Protect young stems from rodent damage under snow if you notice gnawing.

Permits and local help

In Michigan, shoreline work at or below the ordinary high‑water mark may require permits from the Michigan Department of Environment, Great Lakes, and Energy. Local ordinances in the City of Charlevoix, Charlevoix Township, and county planning may also apply. Contact the appropriate offices early in your planning.

For technical assistance and plant lists, look to Michigan Sea Grant and MSU Extension. The Charlevoix County Conservation District and USDA NRCS can advise on buffers and sometimes cost‑share programs. For invasive species control near water, consider a licensed pesticide applicator.

Preserve value and lake character

A native greenbelt is a smart, low‑profile way to stabilize your shoreline, gain privacy, reduce goose pressure, and showcase the natural beauty that draws people to Lake Charlevoix. With the right width, layers, and maintenance, you can protect your property and your view for years to come.

If you are planning updates to a Charlevoix waterfront and want guidance that balances privacy, views, and long‑term value, schedule time with our team. The Shawn Schmidt Group offers discreet, locally informed advice for Northern Michigan waterfront owners. Request a Private Consultation.

FAQs

How wide should a Lake Charlevoix greenbelt be for erosion control?

  • A functional vegetative buffer is typically 20 to 50 feet, with steeper or high‑energy sites benefiting from 30 to 50 feet plus targeted bioengineering at the toe.

What greenbelt width helps deter Canada geese on my lawn?

  • Replace 10 to 20 feet of lawn at the water’s edge with dense, tall shrubs and rough vegetation. This blocks access and reduces grazing and loafing.

Can I keep my lake view with a dense buffer in Charlevoix?

  • Yes. Use low plants at the edge, a mid‑zone of shrubs, and taller trees set back 20 feet or more. Create angled view corridors and prune lower branches to frame the water.

How long before a new greenbelt looks full and effective?

  • Fast‑growing shrubs and grasses typically provide useful screening and erosion resistance in 2 to 5 years. Trees take 5 to 15 years for full canopy and root benefits.

Do I need a permit to plant along my Lake Charlevoix shoreline?

  • Permits may be required for work at or below the ordinary high‑water mark or for certain shoreline alterations. Check with state and local authorities before starting work.

Work With Us

Buying and selling real estate is an important event in your life. Hiring an agent and a company that has seen, experienced, and guided clients through it all is invaluable.

Follow Us on Instagram